Canoeing Basics

Like all rivers the Winooski is a living river -- shifting channels, fallen trees, rocks, and banks can create dangers for the canoeist. Trees that pose a hazard at a bend in the river one year may move downstream or disappear altogether next year. Use good judgment and always paddle with caution.

Allthough you do not have to be an expert canoeist to safely paddle the Winooski River (except on the upper most reach and in all gorges), some rudimentary skill is recommended; the river tends to carry you into potential dangers unlike the still water of a lake. Be aware of your boating ability, and don' t attempt to canoe a stretch of river if you know it is beyond that ability. Most good paddlers learn skills gradually, and attempts to advance too quickly will compromise your safety and equipment.

Rapids Classification

The following rapids classification is reprinted from the safety code of the American Whitewater Affiliation.

Class I. Moving water with a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions.

Class II. Easy rapids with waves up to 3 feet, and wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting. Some maneuvering is required.

Class III. Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore.

Class IV. Long, difficult rapids with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore is often necessary, and conditions make rescue difficult. Generally not possible for open canoes. Boaters in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to Eskimo Roll.

Class V. Extremely difficult, long and very violent rapids with highly congested routes which nearly always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult and there is significant hazard to life in the event of a mishap. Ability to eskimo roll is essential for kayaks and canoes.

Class VI. Difficulties of class V carried to the extreme of navigability. Nearly impossible and very dangerous. For teams of experts only, after close study and with all precautions taken.

Riffle. A shallow spot extending across the river bed with rapids.

Eddy. Current that is deflected by an obstruction or bend in the river and is moving in a circular motion or opposite directions.

Line. Walking and pulling or carrying the canoe through or around shallow water or rapids.

Rudimentary Cautions

Following is an advisory list of rudimentary cautions and basic points. For a complete list of safety procedures, consult guides such as The American Red Cross Whitewater in an Open Canoe and the Appalachian Mountain Club River Guide.

1) Sudden changes in water level can result from storms and water releases from dams. Faster water, increasing difficulty of rapids, and an increase in the number of rapids can result from an increase in the water flow. Be alert for such changes even in mid-summer or fall.

2) When the river is low many normally hidden rocks and ledges appear. Choose a route through these areas by finding the deepest channel to avoid running aground in the shallows.

3) Pull over above each section of rapids. This will allow you time to check for hazards and the best navigable route through these waters.

4) Since the wind has a tendency to blow upriver (particularly in the lower reaches) travel may be slower than anticipated. Allow for this on a windy day and plan to paddle harder and to spend more time on the river to get to your destination.

5) If you want to start and finish at the same point it is easier to go upstream first and then float downstream to your destination.

6) If you are unfamiliar with a stretch of the river, go ashore and walk upstream to scout the area and assure a safe approach to potential hazards such as rapids or dams.

7) Most river campsites are primitive in that they are not routinely maintained and do not have fire rings or picnic tables unless otherwise noted. Please leave the campsite as you found it. In Reach 7 primitive river camping is allowed by permit only at some Winooski Valley Park District parks located in this stretch of river. (See Reach 7 map)

8) When the river is at flood stage or excessively high water it should be considered off limits to all parties.

9) Keep your weight centered and low in the canoe. A kneeling position enhances stability and paddling efficiency.

10) Do not change places in a canoe while on the water. Instead, go ashore unless you are familiar with the proper technique.

11) If your canoe upsets, immediately get to the upstream end so that you cannot be crushed between a rock and your boat by the force of the current. Always keep your feet at the surface and look downstream for an eddy. Hold onto your boat. There are few exceptions to this rule. It is your biggest and best life preserver and you will be easier for rescuers to spot. The only time you should release your boat and swim for safety is if it will improve your chances, especially if the water is cold or dangerous rapids lie ahead. Do not attempt to stand in fast-moving water; if your foot wedges on the bottom, fast water will push you under and keep you there. Get to slow or very shallow water before attempting to stand or walk.

12) In rough water fasten all gear (non-floating) securely to prevent loss.

13) A spare paddle in the canoe can prevent disaster. Always carry one and keep it close, secure, and readily accessible.

14) A life jacket is required for all parties in the canoe by Vermont laws. A snug fitting, vest-type preserver offers back and shoulder protection as well as the floatation needed to swim safely in whitewater. Without a life jacket you would not be able to float high enough to see where you are.

15) Boating alone is discouraged. The minimum party is three people or two craft.

16) The river contains many dams. Review all maps carefully and become familiar with the locations of these dams. Some, but not all, dams are proceeded by orange and white floating barrels which are placed in the river on or about Memorial Day and removed on or about November 1st. NEVER PROCEED PAST ANY SUCH BARRIERS. Always proceed with caution when approaching any dam. It is always possible that the floating barrels may not be in the river.

17) Remember that flows will vary downstream of a dam. Some dams are equipped with audio safety warnings which alert downstream users when generation will begin. Please be careful if you hear a warning.

Please remember that this is an advisory safety list only. For a thorough knowledge of safety procedures consult canoe safety guides.

Basic Gear and Clothing

Canoe. A 15 to 17 foot canoe is best for the river. This length is large enough to carry a reasonable load yet easy to handle and portage.

Paddles. A third paddle provides a spare for emergencies and is handy if you use paddles of different lengths for smooth water and for rapids. The longer should be used to slam the stern of the canoe sideways in a rapid.

Rope. Attach a 20-foot, 3/8 inch in diameter rope to each end of your canoe. These lines are useful for tying up, lining past rapids, hauling up steep banks, and if worse comes to worse, they are a great help in rescuing a swamped canoe. Nylon resists abrasion, but some people like the plastic lines that float. Smaller lines may be strong enough but they are hard to grip with a cold, wet hand and tend to kink up and knot.

Waterproof Packs. All kinds of waterproof packs are available but some advertised as waterproof are only water repellent. Test in advance. Old army ammunition boxes, institution-size plastic jars with screw-top lids make excellent waterproof packing for small items and cameras. Plastic garbage bags are too flimsy to offer useful protection. All equipment should be tied into the canoe so it will not slide around or be lost in a spill.

Emergency Kit. Your small packet of emergency items should include a first aid kit and a roll of duct tape. The tape is indispensable for patching holes in canoes, rainsuits, and other items. A small sewing kit, complete with thread, needles, pins, buttons, extra cloth, and folding scissors is very handy on a long trip. Also take along a knife, a small tube of waterproof glue, extra cord, waterproof matches, and a compass.

Canoe Camping Gear. Consult books on the subject or talk with experienced canoeists and reputable canoe outfitters.

Clothing. Many people like to canoe in a bathing suit; this is fine for a while, but be sure to take along more protective clothing -- a hat, a longsleeved shirt, pants , socks and gloves.

Carry a spare set of woolen clothing in case of an accident or a sudden drop in temperature. Blue jeans and sweat shirts are the worst possible choice; they hold water, are chilly when wet, and take forever to dry.

Wading shoes should be worn. Sneakers are usually sufficient.

A rainsuit is the best protection against the weather. Ponchos dangerously hamper your swimming ability and always get in the way of paddling.

Figure A Figure B Figure C Although there are only three basic paddling strokes in canoeing -- propelling, turning and bracing -- there are numerous variations on those. For simple canoeing, however, it's necessary to know only a few. Click on the image above to download a video of the program segment on paddling basics. Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Figure J Figure K Figure L Figure M Figure N

Grip and Posture


For paddling a canoe, the proper grip is to have the grip-hand on the top, or handle, of the paddle while the shaft-hand is about a shoulder-width away, holding firmly onto the shaft of the paddle (figure A).


With the grip-hand, you control the angle of the blade while the shaft-hand pulls the stroke cleanly through the water. During an ordinary stroke, reach forward and keep the shaft as close to vertical as possible through the entire stroke (figure B). End the stroke at about the point where the paddle reaches your hip.


When you're paddling properly, most of the energy expended will be used to push the canoe forward. To conserve energy and paddle with the greatest efficiency, keep the arm of your grip-hand (your right arm, if you're paddling on the left side) as straight as possible (figure C). It may seem stiff and and awkward at first, but with practice it will gradually come to feel more natural. This technique focuses paddling exertion into the shoulder and waist muscles, which are a lot stronger than arm and wrist muscles. Correct paddling involves rotating the torso and keeping the stroke parallel to the center line of the canoe.


Tip: Watching the blade of the paddle all the way through the stroke is one way to help ensure that you're paddling correctly. It forces you to turn your body as you stroke. That way, you're working the proper muscles for greatest paddling efficiency.




Steering and Turning


Since the two paddlers in a canoe don't paddle identically or in perfect unison, the canoe may tend to veer off a little. To adjust, the person in the rear can use a J-stroke, an ordinary paddling stroke with a slight outward push at the end (figure D). If he's paddling on the right and the canoe is veering left, the slight outward motion at the end of the stroke -- resembling the hook in the letter J -- will give the canoe a slight push to the right.


If the canoe is veering right, then another method of making a minor adjustment is for the two paddlers to simply switch sides, each paddling a few strokes on the side opposite from which he had been paddling (figure E). This should cause the canoe to veer back in the opposite direction. As soon as the correction is made, switch back to paddling normally.


The J-stroke and side-switching techniques also come in handy for paddling by yourself. To keep the canoe moving straight through the water, either use a J-stroke periodically or simply alternate sides every few strokes.


To turn a canoe abruptly for a complete change in direction, use a wide, sweeping stroke (figure F). Rather than keeping the paddle vertical, lean out and sweep in a big arc, away from the canoe and back. A sweep like that provides greater leverage and will turn the canoe in the direction away from the side on which you're paddling. This is a strenuous and tiring stroke, but it can be beneficial if used occasionally.


To turn faster, reverse that stroke. Place the paddle in the water behind you and push it forward. This will make for a very quick turn, but it brings the canoe to a stop.


When moving quickly through the water, the person in the rear of the canoe can steer simply by placing the blade of the paddle in the water and using it as a rudder (figure G). Place the blade of the paddle in the water, with the top of the shaft tilted forward. If you're paddling on the right and you turn the blade away from the canoe, you'll veer right. If you turn the blade in toward the canoe (figure H), you'll veer left. It sounds confusing when described, but with a little practice, you'll get a feel for it.




Specialized Strokes


The draw and the pry are two special strokes that can help get you out of a jam. They are used to turn the canoe quickly or move it laterally in the water.


In the draw, the paddler leans out over the side of the canoe with the blade parallel to the canoe, then inserts the blade into the water and draws it inward (figure I). Once the paddle reaches the canoe, turn it so the blade is perpendicular to the canoe and slide it straight out of the water.


The pry is just the opposite of the draw. Place the paddle under the canoe and pry it out (figure J). Like the draw, prying can turn the canoe or move it sideways in the water.


If the stern paddler draws while the bow paddler pries, or vice versa, the canoe can also be moved sideways. This can come in particularly handy when negotiating a narrow channel.


The bracing stroke is another specialized stroke. It's a safety stroke, and it may keep you from capsizing. If a canoe begins to tip, the bracing stroke can help stabilize it. If the canoe is tipping toward the side on which you're paddling, simply stick the paddle far out of the canoe so that it's parallel with the water, bring the blade down onto the surface of the water and quickly thrust backward (figure K). This action of pushing against the water can be used to force the canoe back upright. In an emergency, simply extend the paddle quickly and slap the surface of the water.


If you canoe with the same person for a while, you should get a feel for the way you work together. Communication with your partner will become instinctual and possibly almost silent -- with each partner anticipating strokes, practically eliminating the need to speak commands to one another.




Portaging


In many instances, part of a canoe trip will involve carrying a canoe over a stretch of land -- moving from lake to lake, around rapids, bypassing a shallow part of a river, etc. This overland transport is termed portage, and it requires a bit of technique.


Most modern canoes are equipped with a carrying yoke, a bar that extends across the center section. Move to the center of the canoe, reach down and grip the near side of the yoke, lift up and tip the canoe onto its side (figure L).


Reach over with the other hand and grasp the far side of the yoke and prepare to lift up (figure M).


As you lift the canoe, position the carrying yoke across your shoulders. (This maneuver takes some getting used to.)


Use caution to avoid striking trees or other objects as you carry the canoe balanced on your shoulders (figure N).

 

Who Does What? Bowman The Engine: provides the power to move the canoe. The Lookout: reads the river; picks direction. Sternman The Steering Wheel: turns the canoe. The Captain:calls which strokes should be done. Some Suggestions! You must communicate and work together. Until you have crewed together many times, expect mistakes and learn from them. Don't get mad at your canoe-mate. Try new strokes and stroke combinations. Learn to play the river.

To move the canoe sideways towards sternman's paddle side. Bowman Side Pry: Pushes bow away from paddle. Sternman Side Draw: Pulls stern towards paddle. Note Be careful doing these strokes together or you may upset the canoe. Be low in the canoe and balanced.

To pivot the canoe towards sternman's paddle side. Bowman Forward Sweep + Cross Bow Draw: Rotates canoe towards sternman's paddle side. Sternman Reverse Sweep: Rotates canoe away from paddle.

To pivot the canoe away from sternman's paddle side. Bowman Reverse Sweep + Draw: Rotates canoe towards paddle. Sternman Forward Sweep: Rotates canoe towards paddle.